7/23/02, Burgos, Spain – I’m in Burgos, now. This is where El Cid lived in the 11th century. I arrived here last night and am spending the day resting and sightseeing. I’ll continue on my path of righteousness in the morning. I have about 500 km more to go to reach Santiago, where my holy crusade will end. In fact, I’ve already placed my order for a size XXL 5000 watt halo.
There are some really neat souvenir shops here in town. You can get a genuine El Cid sword here for under $20. I wish I had some space to carry one. On the other hand, I might just need one for protection against the roving bands of godless heathen moors and protestants that I’ve been warned about.
Now that I’ve cycled a few hundred km in northwestern Spain (and having cycled the entire Mediterranean coast on my last trip), I have to admit that Spain is just not as pretty as France. This is really unfortunate, as the cost of living here is much less, I can almost speak the language, and the food is better. In France I really tried to cultivate a taste for frogs and snails, but never really did get to like them. Here in Spain, a tortilla is a flat potato omelette and all of the cafes have tapas, which are an assortment of snacks that usually taste good even if I don’t know what they are made of.
From now on, I plan to slow down my pace a little. After my last trip to Europe, I felt that I spent too much time cycling and too little time enjoying Europe. And here I am making the same mistake again. This afternoon I’m going to read my pilgrim guidebook and try to plan for some more rest days between here and Santiago. The country I’m cycling through is like the area between Bakersfield and Fresno, but with a lot more hills. The two lane highway seems to miss most of the small medieval villages that I really like to see. It’s not as bicycle friendly as France, where there are a lot more rural roads that pass right through the small villages.
God is certainly looking out for the welfare of His holy pilgrims. The temperature is in the mid ‘90s, none of us are even slightly concerned about frostbite, and there are just enough unexpected thunderstorms to ensure our personal cleanliness.
The closer I get to Santiago, the more holy pilgrims I see along the way, as the various pilgrim trails from all parts of Europe converge. I’m expecting that the last 50 km into Santiago will look like the Interstate 10 at rush hour, full of backpackers and bicycles.
I’m really surprised at just how popular this trip is here in Europe. I had never heard of it before someone in Paris told me about it. I have even run across several other Americans here. With the three Euro price for a night of ecstasy in the multi-sex albuergues, a person can easily take a very long, very cheap European vacation and see things that the average tourist will never have a clue even exists. I might even do this again someday, but following a different route. That way I could be the only saint in California with two halos.